1. Balance
Balance is crucial in mountain biking, not just
left-right balance, but front to back balance.
Weight over the rear wheel is what gives you
traction: if your back tire is slipping, try
moving back on the seat, or if you are standing,
transfer more of your weight to the rear of the
bike. If your front wheel comes off the ground,
then you need to transfer more weight to it.
2. Setting
Proper Pedaling Bike Seat Height
To find the right seat height position you need
to sit on your bike with your feet on the
pedals. Position of one pedal is at the very
bottom of its stroke. Your seat height should be
adjusted so that in this position your knee is
bent at around a 25 to 30 degree angle. It's
that simple.
It is
important to note that this applies to pedaling
situations only. There are a lot of situations
on a mountain bike and other off road cycles
that you should have a lower seat position for
safety as well as improved agility.
3.
Always commit to a track or line.
This means that you need to think a few steps
ahead and set out the line that you want to
ride. If you hesitate for example because you
are afraid of the obstacles that are ahead of
you, it quite often happens that things go
wrong. Your posture might change because you are
afraid and thinking about your fear instead of
just mountain biking. Especially going downhill,
if you hesitate halfway through, you will surely
fall off.
4. Think
2-3 moves ahead.
Don't focus on a single obstacle for a long
time. Always be aware of the next thing you have
to do.
5. Don't
lock your sights on the rider in front of you.
You just might end up hitting a piece of rock
that the rider in front of you has just managed
to avoid. Look 1-2 meters ahead of you. Don't
focus on your front wheel or the rear wheel of
the rider in front of you.
6. Don't
grip the handlebars too tight.
This will make your upper body tense and will
tire you faster. Loosen up but, not to loose.
7. Don't
put your thumb above the handle bar.
This will make it easier for you too loose grip
if you hit something unexpectedly.
8.
Slightly bend your elbows and loosen you
shoulders, but not to hunch.
This will assist in absorbing the shocks that
you might experience in the trial.
9.
Descending
Stay back on the bike. On steep descents, you
may have to be behind your seat. Use your brakes
before corners, not in them (see braking). Don't
descend anything you are not sure of; walk if in
doubt.
10.
Cornering
Learn the technique of "counter steering". Brake
before corners, not in them. Look where you want
to go, not at what you don't want to hit. Bikes
have a way of going wherever you look. Slow down
to a safe speed, and then accelerate out of
corners. Don't skid, it looks fast, but it
isn't. Lean into turns; you can "lead" with your
inside knee to help with this.
11.
Braking
Most of your braking force is in the front
brake. Use both brakes simultaneously, and brake
before corners, not in them. Do not lock your
back brake to skid! It is destructive to the
trail, and not as effective at slowing you down.
12.
Shifting
You should always pick a gear that allows you to
"spin" your pedals at between 60 and 90 rpm.
(Note: racers may spin more). Lower gears are
"easier" to spin on hills, while higher gears
are "harder". The smallest chain ring (on the
crank-set, where the pedals are) is your lowest
gear range, while the largest chain-ring is your
highest gear range. The largest cog on freewheel
(on the back wheel) is your lowest gear, while
the smallest cog is your highest gear. It is the
combination of your chain ring (gear range) and
cog (gear) that gives you the overall gear ratio
you are in. Try shifting to a lower gear before
you are in the middle of a steep hill.
13. Mud
Do not ride in mud! It leaves deep groves which
water follows, causing erosion. If you hit a
small patch of mud on an otherwise dry trail,
pull up lightly on the bars and either maintain
speed or pedal through. If the mud is deep, walk
your bike around it. Do not try to ride around –
this causes the trails to get widened beyond
what they were originally intended.
14. Sand
Similar to mud, but try a slightly higher gear
than you would normally ride in.
15.
Rocks, holes, and bumps
When going over rocks, holes, or bumps that may
trap your front wheel, you need to move your
weight back so that the wheel can "float" over
the obstacle. Sometimes you will need to pick up
the front wheel (called "lofting") to get it
over the obstacle. Your rear wheel will often
just roll through the obstacle.
16.
Water and water crossings
Avoid riding through streams where possible; a
tire's passage causes sedimentation of the
stream. If you must cross, maintain momentum in
a low gear, and use a light touch on the
handlebars. Let rocks deflect your tire gently.
Read the Safety
riding rules.
>> More Biking tips
•
Types
of bike: Road
bike, Mountain
bike, Hybrid
bike, BMX, Track
racing bike
•
Biking in Vietnam
•
Mounting and dismounting mountain bike
•
Gear shifting components
•
Basics of shifting gear techniques and examples |
